Conversely, Zenith’s brushed rose gold exhibits some warmer, smokier tones akin to some virgin bronze cases that we’ve handled. The tricky thing about rose gold and men’s watches is that the end result isn’t always the most flattering or masculine – particularly because the high-polished palette swap of the case doesn’t always pay any favors to the colors or textures on the dial, especially with the cheerful, pinkish hues of rose gold used on most cases. And while the 4061 functionally behaves exactly like the famed El Primero 400 caliber which made its debut in 1969, it was developed specifically to put as much of the high-beat ballet as possible in full view. That’s where the El Primero 4061 ‘Open’ caliber has an edge – this high-beat movement is actually quite a treat to watch front and back, as the 5Hz oscillation rate (10 beats per second) delivers an ultra-smooth sweep seconds hand, and an escapement that jumps back and forth at a truly frenetic pace. zenith-watches.With most automatic movements, an open heart is a fun distraction, but the novelty isn’t usually long-lasting, as a traditional ETA 2824 or Valjoux 7750 starts to feel a little too familiar. We’ll update with exact pricing but the “non-full open” models in steel and gold range in the $10,000-$15,000 so expect a bit more than that. Personally, I typically lean towards a bracelet, though I can’t deny that the brown leather fits the two-tone variation perfectly. The steel model will have a bracelet option and a black leather strap and the pink gold model will have the option of black leather strap or brown chestnut leather strap. I personally feel that the pink gold model has better legibility, but the more I look at the stainless steel model, the more sporty and “Zenith” it feels. The transparent date window remains between 1 and 2 o’clock with a red backdrop, and the moon-phase (complete with a 59-day double-lunar cycle) at the 6 o’clock position adds a splash of additional color to the traditional red, blue, and grey Zenith palette. Through the domed sapphire crystal, there is a lot to look at, as there are over 332 components, and the full stainless model does appear a bit busy at first glance. The dial shares the same layout as the previous versions, but for the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open, the architecture is on full display. Because it beats at 5Hz, this allows for an accurate display down to a tenth of a second. The self-winding chronograph movement operates at 36,000vph and has a 50-hour power reserve. Inside beats a 5Hz, high-frequency, in-house El Primero Calibre 4047B. And keeping its size in line with the rest of the Grande Date collection, measuring in at 45mm, this may seem like a larger, more imposing watch – but who would buy such a watch if they didn’t want people to see it? It would have been interesting to see a ceramic bezel version like with their Rolling Stones El Primero Skeletonized watch, in my opinion. The watch will come in two variations: a full stainless steel case, or two-tone stainless steel and pink gold. Both will feature a domed sapphire crystal on the front, and a sapphire case-back. It’s not a surprise, as Zenith has a penchant for some truly polarizing and bold designs, and this watch is a natural progression in the El Primero line which now has something like over 70 watches in production. For Baselworld 2017, Zenith is releasing the Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open watch. Featuring a dial carved in sapphire, a dual-disc sun and moon phase, and for the first time in the Grande Date, a fully skeletonized architecture, it’s hard to not be both enamored and a little overwhelmed by the high-energy design.
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